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Planning a 2wd to Super Duty 4wd axle swap in 1967-79 Ford pickups

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There are a lot of considerations with planning a Super Duty axle swap in a classic Ford truck. If you are asking "what do I need to do this swap?", this page is for you.

 

1. Front end kit for 2005-16 axle and 2005-07 steering box

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The front end kits made by Battle Born Brakes for 2wd applications all come with spring buckets, a track bar bracket, plates and hardware for a 2005-07 SD steering box, weld on ends for fabricated steering drag link, and either radius amr brackets or internationally 4 link. We'll go over variations and options of these parts further below.

 

2. Parts from a donor truck and other retailers

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You will need to separately purchase these parts for the front end:
 

  • Front axle, 2005-2016

  • Front coil springs, 2005-2016

  • Front radius arms, 2005-2016

  • Front Shocks, 2005-2016, Bilstein 24-186674 or similar

  • Steering gear- must be 2005 to 2007. Lares 11610 from Rockauto if its in the budget

  • Pitman arm, oem style, 2005-2016

  • Front track bar, 2005-2016

  • Length of 1.5" OD 1.0" ID DOM tube such as TU1031 from Summit Racing for drag link

  • Front rubber brake hoses for a 2005-2007 super duty (other years do work, these are more convenient)

  • Steering shaft with 3/4" 36 spline shafts on either end such as Borgeson 000970

  • Borgeson 409202 male to male adapter (only some aplicaitons, see below)

  • Borgeson 313400 female coupler(only some aplicaitons, see below)

  • Prothane Bump Stops part no. 19-1311-BL, unless cutting engine crossmember for additional suspension ravel. If cutting, you'll want a smaller bump stop but I don't have a part number yet

3. Figure out lift height and possible engine crossmember notching

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You can do an axle swap with a variety of different lift heights but there are a few things to be aware of:

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  • Any less than 7" of lift will result in a need to notch your engine crossmember to maintain suspension ravel. Even 7" of lift can benefit from crossmember notching.

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    Tire size plays a big role in lift height. Here is our suggested lift amount per tire size. All of these amounts of lift can be accomplished with different spring buckets and oem used SD coils. You can also used SD lift coils.

    • 33" tires work with 4" lift
    • 35" tires work with 5.5" lift
    • 37" tires work with 7" lift
    • 38" tires work with 8" lift
    • 40" tires work with 11 to 12" lift
  • Up to 7" lift can used a oem style SD pitman arm and a basic track bar bracket from us. More than that requires a drop pitman arm and a drop (more expensive) track bar bracket from us.
  • Very large amounts of lift require high steer and a high fabricated track bar.

4. Radius arm brackets or 4 link

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Super Duty trucks are originally equipped with radius arms. These are plenty effective and strong, and can be used with an axle swap. An alternative to radius arms is 4 link. 4 link provides an aesthetic improvement and better caster adjustment. It does not provide any improvement to the ride quality. Our opinion is that 4 link is worthwhile for 5.5" or higher lift for the aesthetic reasons. Radius arms look a little out of place and become more noticeable with more lift. Nothing wrong with them though- they get the job done well.

5. Transfer case

A 1977 and older F250 4wd NP205 transfer case is going to be the easiest transfer case option but definitely not the only one. We make a transfer case crossmember (part no. TCD) that works well in any 2wd application for installing one of these divorced cases. This route has a few benefits- you don't need to modify your transmission, your speedometer cable can stay as is, and install is fairly easy. The downside is you have (and need to buy) three driveshafts instead of two.

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Alternatively, you can use a married np205 and these can be adapted to almost any transmission with original parts or modern adapters. A married transfer case install is a decent amount of work. We make a crossmember (part number TCM) that requires fabrication on your end to finish but accommodates a married np205 behind about any transmission and supports the transmission as well

6. Rear leaf springs and shocks

You can use about any rear leaf springs with a Super Duty axle. You don't need to go to a modern leaf but the reality is there are not many original style options that give you the lift you'll need. Modern leaves are plentiful so this is probably your best bet.

Most of our R&D has been with 2017+ SD leaves and Skyjacker FR173S in particular. This spring has a good balance of ride quality and load capacity. It is a lot longer and heavier than any original spring. It is overkill for any half ton applications.

 

There is a significant amount of info here that is helpful regarding this rear leaf spring and shock topic:

https://www.battlebornbrakes.com/rearaxle

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7. Steering shaft

Later columns have a removable flange on the lower end of the column. These applications are a breeze to install a new longer shaft. You would just purchase Borgeson 00970

Older columns (perhaps around 1976 or older, not positive) you would either need to go to a 4wd column (of about any year) that has a 3/4 36 spline output shaft or you need to do the cutting and welding shown here:

https://www.battlebornbrakes.com/steering-shaft

 

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8. Brake booster and master cylinder

The larger calipers on modern axles require more brake fluid volume. You original booster/ master system won't come close to working. Super duty master cylinders come in either 1.375 or 1.5 bore. We've found that 1.375 gives the best pedal feel in these swaps so that's all we provide.

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You'll need to chose between a vacuum or hydroboost SD booster. Both are plenty powerful. Our opinion is that vacuum is preferable because of the lower cost and the simplicity compared to hydroboost. Valve cover clearance is the only issue with vacuum brakes. The 11" booster will interfere with a lot of tall valve covers. Our FB1HC kit holds the booster up and at an angle, inspired by the 1979 oem boosters. This will clear a 460 with oem valve covers. If you have tall valve covers on any engine, no way around it, the vacuum booster won't work and you'll need hydroboost.

If you don't have a consistent vacuum source, that is another case where hydroboost is required.

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9. Driveshafts

Most original driveshafts are fairly small diameter with 1330 or 1310 joints. SD front driveshafts are often larger diameter tubes with 1350 joints in the front and 1410 in the rear. Always measure and never assume the size to avoid errors.

If it's in the budget, new shafts with 1350 and 1410 joints are a really nice upgrade. You can get new yokes for a np205 transfer case that accepts these sizes you don't need any adapter joints.

You can also reuse oem driveshafts with a combination of adapter joints, lengthening and shortening. Summit racing or a local driveshaft shop are good resources for those adapter joints.

10. Suggested ordering from BBB

While there are many options for all the parts you would need, here is one set of parts that could beverything you need from us:

1967-79 2wd truck, lifted 7" to avoid crossmember cutting:
-SDAF25 or SDAF35 Front end kit $1,450

-TCD divorced transfer case crossmember $450

-F25RLSD (not all 2wd applications) $400

-RL6 upper leaf psring plates $85

-FB1HC Vacuum SD booster and 1.375 bore master kit $495

-SDVP1 steering plumbing for the 2005 SD box $90

-RS5 rear upper shock brackes $85

-RS1 rear shock brackets, weld on $60

Total: $3,115.00

4 link could be substituted for radius arm brackes for $1,400 extra

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About Battle Born Brakes

BBB sells components to upgrade braking and suspension systems on classic vehicles

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Vancouver, Washington

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