Ford didn't make a hydroboost option in the 1970's but if they did, this would be it. This is an entirely new hydroboost system specially manufactured to bolt onto 1968-79 Ford Trucks like an original part. It bolts in with your original booster brackets you already have, and uses an original style master cylinder. While the master cylinder you already have could work, you will want this large 1.25" bore master cylinder that is included.
 
This system outperforms any vacuum booster by a landslide and the larger master cylinder puts out about 60% more fluid than a common 1.0" bore master cylinder. Not only will you have more powerful brakes, you will get a much better brake pedal feel. 
 
Hydroboost uses power sterring fluid rather than vacuum to power the brakes. You will plumb your pump's high pressure output to the passenger side hydroboost port with the included 6an stainless steel hose and fittings, them plumb the other included 6an hose from driver side hydroboost to power steering box high pressure port. The hydroboost has its own low pressure return. This return and the steering box low pressure return are tee'd together (tee fitting is included) and then one return line goes back to the pump. Most any oem pump will power this just fine. The pumps with the small metal filler neck commonly on FE engines are the most prone to making noise. They will work fine but if its in the budget consider going to a saginaw pump.

You will need to know the fitting type on the pump's high pressure port. Most FE engines have a 5/8 male flare fitting and need a female fitting. Most 400/460 engines have a pump with a plastic body and have a 5/8 female o-ring fittig and need a male fitting. Modern engine swaps sometimes have a pump with an M16 o ring. 
 
Included parts:
Hydroboost unit with one threaded end for your application
Master Cylinder part number C9TZ2140G
2 X 6an AN hoses. 32" and 34". Shorter one for pump, longer for hydro to steering box
AN adapter fittings for hydroboost, pump, and steering box high pressure
Rubber return hose
Tee fitting for return
Hose clamps (Comp Cam Gator clamps, only the best!) for return lines
Hardware for booster to booster bracket, and booster to master


Not included parts that you need to buy:

Fitting for steering box low pressure to 3/8 hose (this kit assumes you will resue a portion of your existing return hose)
Bolts for your existing booster brackets to firewall (you can reuse originals)
Steering fluid
 / ATF
Brake lines

 
Application Notes
Do NOT use this for front drum brakes
This works great for either disc/disc or disc/drum
I have not tested this with Super Duty axle swaps. It will probably work but I would recommend a Super Duty booster conversion for that larger 1 3/8 booster. Those axles have calipers that like a lot of fluid

FAQ: 


What should I do about my proportioning valve? 

I have found that most oem proportioning valves work great with booster and master upgrades. Disc/Drum valves seem to work well with Disc/Disc conversions too for that matter. Test your brakes out on a road without traffic and make sure neither axle is locking up well before the other.

Will my factory power steering pump power this ok? 

Yes, it will power it just fine. Super Duty (and most modern PS pumps) do put out higher pressure, but this kit combined with your factory power steering pump will put out gobs of power. You of course need a good functioning power steering pump. If it is old and worn out, that is a bad idea. 


Will this make my truck hard to steer? 

No, you will not notice any changes to the feel of your steering. 


Do I need a fluid cooler? 

It's a good idea, especially if you live in a warm environment. Derale Cooling Products 13502 is a good option with 3/8" hose barbs that is easily plumbed in. This is plumbed in the return line, NOT the pressure side. 
Some trucks have an oem steering cooler which is just a winding metal 3/8 tube and this works well.

What about the brake lines? 
Plumbing the new master cylinder in is fairly easy. The factory proportioning valve is located straight down on the inside of the driver side frame rail. If your lines are on the wrong side, brake lines can be easily made to plumb in with the included flare adapter fittings. You'll want 36" or longer sections of 3/16 brake lines if needed. Minor bending of 3/16 lines can be done by hand without any tools and is nothing to be afraid of.
 
What fittings does the master cylinder need? 
The master cylinder has 3/8 and 9/16 inverted female flare threads. Included is a 9/16 to 1/2" flare adapter fitting. This covers many applications but you may need a 9/16 to 3/8 adapter fitting if running new brake lines with common 3/8 tube nuts.