This is a very complete kit to install a 2005+ front axle, suspension and steering in your 1967 - 1979 F250 2wd pickup. It has the affect of raising the front end of your truck quite a bit which is necessary for clearance of the engine crossmember. The picture with the tape measure held to the fender is with a 33" tire and oem 2005 SD springs.
 
You will need to check my fitment guide (see link below) to make sure you purchase the correct version. I have four variations of this kit to cover the various frame changes from 1967-72 on F250 2wd trucks. The only difference is the radius arm brackets, all else is the same.
 
This kit is designed to be as close to bolt in as possible and uses existing factory drilled bolt holes and rivet holes. With the right planning and preparation, this can be a weekend project. The handling, ride quality and braking of your truck will be dramatically improved going to a Super Duty Dana 60 and coil suspension.
 
These brackets are laser cut, cnc bent, welded, and powdercoated right here in the USA. I have spent 6 months and many prototypes designing these so they would be nothing short of the highest possible quality.
 
I include plates to add a 2005-07 (and early 08) Super Duty steering gear box. Your factory power steering won't work. The steering conversion requires drilling 3 holes and welding the included plate to the frame rail in front of the crossmember.
 
I have a thorough write up on the conversion process here on my website. Please read through this before ordering. Written instructions are only on my website, not printed. See this page:

https://www.battlebornbrakes.com/f25-instructions
 
I have a fitment guide for you to figure out if this will fit your F250. If you have anF150 or an F350, this will not fit!
 
https://www.battlebornbrakes.com/f25-fitment
 
Recently I have made a new gallary page with dozens of pictures: 
 
https://www.battlebornbrakes.com/2wd-gallery
 
Radius Arm Bracket Type:
The difference between the radius arm bracket options is mostly in the bolt pattern. Supercabs have a contoured bracket (except short beds), the others are straight
Some 1973 trucks don't have any hole pattern on the veritcal frame surface and need F25C
Most 1973-1976 trucks seem to have the "F25b" hole pattern on the frame
Most 1977 to 1979 trucks seem to have the "F25a" hole pattern on the frame
Some 1976 trucks may have the later F25b pattern.
Most 1968-72 trucks don't have these oem drilled holes, and need "F25c"
1975-76 supercabs seem to need either "F25B" or "X25B" depending on the frame contour
1977-79 supercabs seem to need either "F25A" or "X25A" depending on the frame contour
 
Feel free to send me a picture of your frame rail, about 18" behind the front cab mount.
 
Standard Hieght vs Drop Version:
A standard height version raises the truck significantly to allow for clearance of the engine crossmember. The "drop" version still raises the truck a lot, just 3" less and requires cuttng and welding of your engine crossmember.  The drop version has more of a factory 4wd appearance rather than a lifted appearance.
 
The drop version has radius arm brackets that are tighter to the frame. The radius arms are less ovciously visible. This makes for a cleaner appearance that is not obviously swapped, at least at first glance. 
 
The orange 1975 F250 crew cab is pictured with 33" tires and the drop version conversion kit in the above link of pictures of swapped trucks. 
 
The big down side to this kit is that it requires cutting and welding of your engine crossmember, front and back. It is much easier to do this without an engine in the vehicle. 
 
The other down side is that you may need an adjustable track bar. I recommend testing out the converion with an oem Super Duty track bar, and if the axle is not centered your best solution will be to get an adjustable track bar bracket. 
 
In general if you want to have 37" or larger tires, go with the standard kit. Smaller tires, go with the drop kit. A 2" lift spring with the drop height kit would work well with a 35" tire. 
 
 
4 Link Otion:
As an alternative to radius arm brackets, I have a 4 link kit that mounts in the same holes on the frame as the radius arm bracket. This uses 3/8" wall 1.75" OD DOM tubes with the upper tubes formed  in an "S" shape to wrap around the side of the frame. They have Krawler brand rod ends. This 4 link kit is over 100  LBS alone and is very heavy duty.This can be purchased with the front end kit as a $1,400 upgrade or as a standalone kit for $1,600 that does not come with the other front end components. More informatin can be found here:
 
battlebornbrakes.com/product-page/4-link-for-1967-1979-ford-trucks-for-2005-super-duty-axle-swaps
 
 
Included parts:
Control arm / radius arm brackets, welded and powdercoated black
Coil spring buckets with provision for shocks, welded and powdercoated black
Track bar bracket with machined soacer
Plates and spacers for 05-08 steering box conversion
Machined rod ends and lock buts for 1.5" DOM tube and a left hand tie rod end for the pitman arm to SD tie rod end connection
Hardware- a LOT of hardware and all high grade. For spring buckets, control arm brackets, steering conversion, track bar, control arms, etc.
Brake line parts (not the brake lines) and fittings
 
 
Parts you need to purchase separate (all off of 2005+ Super Duty): 
Bump stops- see the instruction page- note that the drop height version needs smaller bump stops
Front axle
Coil springs
Coil spring isolators - part number 5C3Z-5415-AA for example 
Shocks (factory height SD shocks work with factory height SD springs)
Radius Arms
2005-07 SD Steering box and pitman arm (factory height SD pitman arm works with factory height SD springs)
Section of 1" ID 1.5" OD dom tubing for drag link such as TU1031 from summit racing
2005-07 Rubber flexibe brake hoses- DORMAN H620626 and H620627 for example. other years will probably work
2005-2016 Track bar
2005-new Outer tie rod end, MOOG DS300008 for example
Wheels and tires (metric pattern and at least 17" wheels)
 
I highly recommend replacing ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar bushing and ball joint while you are doing this project. You will also want a modernbooster and master cylinder. I recommend the vacuum super duty booster and master setup as long as you don't have tall valve covers or a lack of vacuum, in which case the Super Duty hydroboost kit I have will work well and be very powerful.